An Insider’s Guide To Skiing In The Aosta Valley

From the slopes to après-ski: the Valle d’Aosta has it all.

The Valle d’Aosta, or Aosta Valley, has long been my Italian family’s favorite destination for skiing and celebrating Christmas. With its hearty cuisine, lively après-ski scene, and stunning slopes, it’s the perfect winter escape. Whether you’re planning an annual family ski trip or a cozy, romantic getaway in a picturesque cabin, these Aosta Valley ski resorts offer something for everyone.

Tucked away between Piedmont and the French and Swiss borders, the region is easily accessible from cities like Geneva, Turin, and Lyon, making it an ideal choice for a weekend or holiday retreat. And with 19 ski resorts, it draws skiers from around the globe.

But the Aosta Valley isn’t only for skiers — it’s a destination for food and wine lovers, too. Thanks to its unique microclimate, the region produces more than 20 varieties of wine while its cuisine blends the best of French and Italian flavors. Here’s where you should eat, sleep and play on the slopes in the Aosta Valley.

COURMAYEUR

Just 90-minutes drive from Turin lies Courmayeur — the region’s bougiest ski resort. With the world’s longest lift-served run, the iconic Vallée Blanche skiing experience, and breathtaking views of over 10 peaks rising above 4,000 meters, its reputation is well-deserved.

From nearby Dolonne, you can access Plan Chécrouit, the heart of the slopes, where ski schools and rental shops are conveniently located. From here, you can explore a variety of blue and red runs, like Pra Neyron, or challenge yourself on black slopes such as Cresta d’Arp, perched at an altitude of 2,755 meters.

After a day on the slopes, trade your skis for moon boots and head to Super G, Courmayeur’s famous outdoor club. This lively spot offers an afternoon DJ terrace, a food truck, a restaurant and a cocktail station. If you’re visiting over New Year’s, celebrating at Super G with fireworks and music is a personal favorite tradition.

After a day of skiing, unwind at QC Terme Pré-Saint-Didier, just a 20-minute drive from the town center. This spa features 40 facilities, treatments, and hot springs that date back to Roman times. Set in a 19th-century, castle-like structure at the foot of the mountains, it’s a relaxing retreat that costs €45–55 during high season.

When it’s time to eat, my family’s go-to lunch spot on the slopes is La Grolla, a restaurant nestled in Val Veny that dates back to 1973. It’s an ideal pit stop to enjoy dishes like beef tartare smothered with black truffle, served on a terrace overlooking the impressive Brenva Glacier.

For dinner, head to Cadran Solaire on Via Roma, a family-run hotel and restaurant in Courmayeur for over 60 years. The restaurant is housed in cozy, candle-lit rooms made of wood and stone, perfect for large groups. Their menu serves comforting French-Italian dishes like tartiflette, a hearty casserole with potatoes, reblochon cheese, lardons and onions. A must-try, is the pumpkin risotto with ‘Bleau d’Aoste’ cheese: a rich, creamy cheese similar to Gorgonzola.

Stay overnight at Auberge de la Maison, also owned by the family behind Cadran Solaire. This charming four-star hotel offers fire-lit lounges, a spa and a heated outdoor pool. Each room is decorated with vintage skis, warm rugs and artwork from the family’s collection. The Monte Bianco ski lift is just two minutes away. For a more budget-friendly, but equally comfortable option, consider the three-star L’Abri des Amis.

LA THUILLE

Nicknamed “Little Siberia” for its exceptional snowy conditions, La Thuile is a quieter, smaller town compared to Courmayeur, making it perfect for families. With just 790 year-round residents, it offers a more intimate and laid-back atmosphere.

Originally a mining town dating back to the 12th century, La Thuile is divided into old and new sections and boasts 150km of slopes, primarily suited for intermediate and advanced skiers. From here, you can also reach Cogne within an hour, home to the famous Marcia Gran Paradiso long-distance skiing competition, or cross into France to visit La Rosière. For advanced hikers, I highly recommend a guided excursion to the Rutor Glacier, the sixth largest in Italy. You can also do the same trek in summer when the alpine meadows, lakes and waterfalls — some of the highest in Europe — are at their most stunning.

When it comes to food, La Maison Blanche is a true hidden gem. Set in a small wooden house tucked away in the forest just above town, this restaurant is steeped in history and serves hearty Valdostan cuisine. Its remote location means the only uninvited guest might be a passing fox! You can reach it via the ski lift “Seggiovia Maison Blanche,” which drops you close to the restaurant, or by snowmobile in the evenings. Be sure to enjoy their local cheese and meat platters while taking in the breathtaking views from the main “Panorama Room.”

For a sweet treat in town, don’t miss tasting La Tometta, La Thuile’s signature dessert. This milk-chocolate, praline and hazelnut cake is shaped like the traditional Italian cheese, Toma, hence it’s name. Thanks to the popularity of this dessert, La Thuile earned the title of “City of Chocolate” in 2009.

If you’re staying overnight, I recommend Locanda Collomb, a charming boutique hotel in the town center with just 10 rooms, each decorated with Valdostan paintings and fitted with personalized bookshelves. The suite occupies the entire top floor and features an indoor jacuzzi. For those without a car, the hotel also offers an airport shuttle service.

CERVINIA

Cervinia sits at the northeastern edge of Valle d’Aosta where Italy meets Switzerland. The resort offers incredible skiing and stunning views of the Matterhorn and Piccolo Cervino peaks — without the steep price tag of Zermatt. And it is also easily accessible, just under three hours from Turin and Milan.

As part of the Matterhorn Ski Paradise, Cervinia boasts 150km of slopes, mostly suited for intermediate skiers. For glacier skiing enthusiasts, the Theodul Glacier is reachable from here via Europe’s highest cable car, which ascends to over 3,500 meters. The views from the top are unparalleled: you can see nearly 40 of Europe’s highest mountain peaks and 14 glaciers. If you don’t ski, the cable car station offers unique attractions like the Glacier Palace (a museum of ice sculptures), the Cinema Lounge (the highest cinema in Europe!) and a restaurant with sweeping vistas.

For a sophisticated dining experience, visit Wood: an upscale restaurant that recently won its first Michelin star. Wood creatively combines Swedish, Italian and Asian cuisines, reflecting the diverse backgrounds of its chefs, in its three tasting menus. There’s also an option for vegetarians.

If you’re planning to stay in Cervinia, we recommend La Luge B&B, a relaxed, family-run “baita” (traditional Italian chalet) featuring five cozy bedrooms and an on-site restaurant. Located on a peaceful alpine plain, it’s just a short drive from the town center. Here, you can enjoy family recipes passed down through generations, such as Nonna Adele’s polenta. The hotel is perfect for families and couples as it offers three mezzanine suites and two superior suites for couples.

GRESSONEY & CHAMPOLUC

If you want to feel like you’re traveling back in time, Gressoney and Champoluc are the resorts for you. These two towns are significantly smaller and quieter than others in the region, making them perfect for switching off and immersing yourself in nature on a lower budget. Gressoney consists of two communes, La Trinité and Saint Jean, located in the eastern part of the region at the border with Switzerland and Piedmont. Historically, this part of the Aosta Valley was French-speaking, so you may hear residents communicating in the Franco-Provençal dialect known as “patois“.

The two communes of Gressoney are linked by the Lys torrent, a river fed directly by the Lys glacier. White houses with stone roofs and cobblestoned alleyways line the riverbanks, creating a picturesque alpine setting. As part of the Monterosa ski circuit, the towns connect to 180km of slopes reaching up to 3,000 meters, where heli-skiing and free-riding are available. The Col du Batt ski lift allows skiers to travel seamlessly between the two towns.

Off the slopes, history enthusiasts can explore sites like the 19th-century Savoy Castle or Fort Bard, a majestic stone fort perched within the narrow gorge of the Dora Baltea river, just under an hour away. Grab a snack for the journey at one of the local bakeries to try Tegolebiscuits. These thin, crispy hazelnut cookies are named after their tile-like shape.

In Champoluc, there are several rifugi (traditional Italian chalets with slope-side bedrooms) where you can dine. Family-run spots like Rifugio l’Aroula and Rifugio Belvedere serve comforting Valdostan dishes, including the classic Polenta Concia — a rich cornmeal polenta topped with butter and melted cheese, my personal favorite.

For the ultimate winter retreat, consider staying on the slopes. Hotellerie de Mascognaz, a luxurious four-star hotel, was once a 14th-century hamlet now converted into unique chalets with a restaurant and spa. Each chalet is unique in its design and furniture, decked out with cow-print carpets, fur chairs and stone fireplaces. However, keep in mind that the hotel is only accessible by ski-mobile.

For a similar experience at a lower price point, try Frantze Le Rascard, my family’s annual favorite. Tucked behind pine trees on the slopes, this hidden gem is accessible on foot, skis, or snowmobile and provides easy morning access to the runs. Spend tranquil evenings under the stars with only mountain deer for company, and enjoy fresh, homemade meals in the converted cattle-shed restaurant, where the menu changes daily. With fewer than ten rooms, be sure to book this hotel well in advance.

In Gressoney, Firnelicht and Wongade offer equally charming options for a cozy alpine escape.